Please note that I now have built a newer pair of oars, with smaller diameter handrgrips, and large weights made of wood inboard of the rowlocks for oar balance. This is a photo of my earlier pair of oars
Please note that this is the axle system I am using now, however I have upgraded to a solid steel 16mm diameter axle, as the hollow aluminium axle was not strong enough. The axle stays on the boat at all times, in the water, manhandling the boat around and whilst cartopping
Details of the New Boat as Built
The stem had more rake than expected, thus boat is now 13.5ft long, not 13ft
The boat weighs 51kg, a fraction heavy, but I can car-top it fairly easily (roof racks are rated to 75kg)
The floor was made with 9mm plywood, and sides 6mm marine ply, coated with epoxy resin
The wheels work well, I now have a fixed axle which I leave on all the time
Speed is a fraction slower than my first 18ft dory, but better when the wind blows up
The narrow transom allows me to use a 2hp outboard should I be so inclined - technical term is flexibility
Windage is much better than my first rowboat, though still a fraction too large
I painted the boat with red oil based paint on the outside, grey acrylic paint of the inside
The chine-logs work very well, I prefer these to epoxy fillets
To do it again I would use 4mm plywood on the sides, not 6mm, to save a little weight
Car topping
I use a wooden rack, and it works well, boat slides on forward
I now have added rails on the side, meaning I have to worry less about boat sliding off the top
On all ropes I use a man-harness knot and a steel shackle, this increases rope tension
Time to put in on the car is about 20 minutes, over time I hope to make this faster
The wheels cost $20, work well, can can be removed by undoing four screws
Doing it again - what I would change
I would reduce freeboard and hence windage by 2cm
I would more the thwart forward an inch
I would lower the thwarts by 2cm from the gunnel
I would increase the size of the skeg slightly
I would lower the forefoot by 4cm or so
I would build all the frames and stringers first, assemble that, then add plywood last
The extra 6cm of bottom panel width is worhtwhile, it lowers speed a small fraction
I would reduce the width of the bottom panel at the stern, making it a fraction more double ended
I would use wood for all the frames, not plywood
Safety
The boat has quite reasonable seaworthiness, not as good as a dory, but pretty good none the less
The extra 6cm of bottom panel width increases initial stability, better for those less agile, children etc
There is a lot of flare in the hull, this aids stability in rough weather
The large number and large size of buoyancy compartments mean that floatation is excellent
The stern is fairly narrow and inclined aft, this should reduce effects on any following sea
I always keep a bailer attached via a small lanyard to the boat
Overview of this boat
After quite a lot of time with this boat, I can say that I am very happy with it. If is fast through the water, very seaworthy, low windage and has good ergonomics. Possibly could do with a fraction more beam in the bottom panel (3cm or so), a bit lighter would be a plus too. A removable center thwart would be a plus, so I could sleep in it more easily, versus the fixed thwart I have now. All in all though it is a very very good boat.
Overview - old notes written before the boat was built
As of 27 November 2011, these are the new lines for my next boat. In short it is a 13ft x 4ft rowboat.
Note that I had worked on the lines for quite some time, making small changes here, small changed there. Based on my previous lines I have deepened the forefoot to a degree, made the bow more full to a degree, and also increased the beam
It is hard to know how these changes will work out in practice. A rowboat is compromise between many competing factors, for example a narrower beam might give better performance in very rough conditions, as happens with a dory, but at the expense of the boat being less welcoming for those less used to small boats. If the boat is too tender, then although the boat may have excellent rough water capabilities, if people are not confident in using it, then if will not be used.
A finer bow may create a faster boat, yet a more full bow will rise up into a heavy sea, and in so doing keep the water out. So the degree of fineness is a compromise between these two competing factors.
Main features of this boat when compared to my previous 18ft dory are
Greatly reduced windage
reduced weight
Easily car-toppable
Easy to build
Requires a small amount of materials
Has greater initial stability for those less agile and for children
Is optimised for one person, with ability to carry 2 at times
Long waterline length for good speed
Optimised for smooth water, with ability to survive moderate conditions if encountered
The older sketches of this rowboat can be seen HERE
Note I have now written up a list of 500 different rowboats for those wanting to compare rowboats, see this LINK
Other boats that are very similar
Here are a few rowboats that are similar, note that there are a huge number of rowboats in existence, and I have listed just a few, these are
R13 rowboat from Bateau.com
Seagull rowboat from John Welsford
Joansa Rowboat from John Welsford
Sucher light dory rowboat
Deben 400 light skiff from Selway Fisher
QT Skiff by Jim Michalak
Whisp rowboat by Steve Redmond
Shenandoah Whitehall - skin on frame rowboat by Dave Gentry
Flint 14 Rowboat by Ross Lillistone
Weymiss Skiff by Ian Oughtred
Echo Bay Dory Skiff by Clinton Chase
Caravelle Skiff by Clinton Chase
Now each of the twelve rowboats above has their plusses and minusses, I might go into a little discussion about each of the above and why I chose not to build it.
R13 rowboat - a good boat, has buoyancy compartment, possibly a little too beamy for me, but a good boat nonetheless
Joansa Rowboat - an excellent design, possibly a bit long for me (too hard to cartop), possibly above my boat building skill
Seagull rowboat - another excellent design, probably should have built this one instead of doing my own thing
Deben 400 rowboat - possibly a bit too optimised for comfort in more protected waters
QT skiff - a very good design, lacks flare, thus has more initial stability, so is better for fishing and general rowing here and there, possibly not the ideal boat for rough open water though
Whisp rowboat - possibly my same thoughts as per QT skiff, the lack of flare means it is more optimised for protected waters
Sucher dory, a more forgiving rowboat than the Gloucheseter Light Gull by Phil Bolger, an excellent design, even more seaworthy than what I built
Shenandoah Whitehall - a much easier boat to cartop as it is way lighter, possibly not ideal for very rough weather, maybe I am just unduly cautious when it comes to skin on frame in open seas. A perfect boat for bays, lakes and rivers , wish I had one, fantastic boat!
Flint 14 - a good fast rowboat, the stern is a fraction low and wide for the open sea, possibly a hybrid motor/rowing boat
Weymiss Skiff - a fanstastic boat, possibly too heavy to cartop and beyond my boat building skill
Echo Bay Dory Skiff - an excellent small boat, can be sailed also, I really like this boat, downside is that it is a fraction short at 11.5ft, additionally although kits are available in the US (I am in Oz), plans are not available at the present moment
Caravelle Skiff at 14.0 x 4ft is only 6 inches longer than this one. Trouble was Caravelle was built after I built mine, of all the boats here Caravelle is by far the most similar, a very good boat indeed. More information here LINK
What these boats look like
QT Skiff
Whisp Rowboat
R13 Rowboat
Seagull Rowboat
Flint 14 Rowboat
Sucher dory - note transom is heavily sloped aft
Deben 400 Rowboat
Weymiss Skiff
Shenandoah Whitehall Rowboat
Joansa Rowboat
Echo Bay Dory Skiff
Below can be seen the excellent Spur II rowboat by Phil Bolger. An extremely capable boat, I have shown it as an example of how a rowboat that has rough water capabilities, has a bow that fills out very quickly